Jersey travel writer DAVID DUNN discusses a recent visit to Taiwan, which began with four days in ‘terrific’ Taipei, and then a train trip around the island. (That’s not David in the photo above.)
SEASONED travellers will often cite public markets as ideal territory for gaining a sense of a destination and its people.
While largely true of Taipei’s best-known night bazaars, Shilin and Raohe, engaging with a brace of meerkats isn’t typical.
Hectic, noisy, thronging with locals and tourists, the long lanes of these markets are alive with sizzling street food, both familiar and challenging, mahjong battles, souvenir shops… and dozens of pets.
Misguided preconceptions may have some believing otherwise, but the Taiwanese love their animals – to the extent Raohe alone reveals a dozen pampered pooches in pushchairs, cats catching rides on human shoulders, and two domesticated meerkats keen to give this writer a hug.
It all comes in dramatic contrast to Songshan Ciyou Temple – calm, colourful, ornate, but visitor-friendly – located at the entrance to Raohe Street’s buzzing commerce.
Then again, the market’s occasionally incongruous scenes are among several that pleasantly surprise in Taiwan’s sprawling but approachable capital – beginning with its extensive metro system (MRT).
Dainty, jolly music heralds the arrival of trains as passengers queue politely within painted lines on platforms where politeness is paramount, even at peak times.
The network connects to most major attractions, including Taipei Main Station from where affordable services run to the island’s coastal cities.
Both calm and contrast surface again within the slick luxury of our suitably-named Fantastic Suite at W Taipei (below).
The stylish 18th floor corner space yields immediate wow factor as floor-to-ceiling windows reveal unobstructed views of Taipei 101, at 1,667ft once the planet’s tallest building.
W Taipei’s casual elegance extends to the YEN Chinese Restaurant and decadent YEN Bar, both 31 floors above street level.
YEN’s modern Cantonese cuisine is just as visual, as is The Tipsy Tea at WOOBAR, a sassy take on the afternoon tea concept served via a mini BBQ smoker.
Seasons by olivier e – led by Michelin-starred Chef Olivier Elzer – majors in modern French cuisine while drinks can be enjoyed at the nearby WET pool deck bar.
Located in Xinyi District, W Taipei is a short walk from numerous upmarket retail brands. And, while taxis are abundant and affordable, the hotel is conveniently placed above Town Hall MRT station, making it ideal as a sight-seeing base.
Changing to the Wenshan-Neihu Line gets you to Maokong Gondola and stunning scenery as its cable cars glide past mountain slopes flanking the city’s southeastern edge.
Two stops enable access to remarkable religious sights, including Zhinan Temple, served by its own station, plus Sanxuan and Zhanshan, two temples walkable from the top level via tea shops and restaurants promising visitors more breath-taking views.
Nearer to ground zero, Maokong Gondola links to Taipei Zoo. Although initially reluctant to visit, we found a spacious, well curated attraction with commendable animal welfare and short queues, even for the star attraction…pandas Yuan Yuan and Yuan Zai, her equally sedentary daughter.
Greater animation was on show at Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall, built to honour the former President of the Republic of China who presided over land reform, economic growth, and crises in the Taiwan Strait in the 1950s.
An hourly changing of the guard ceremony by soldiers in striking white uniforms involves an elaborate routine set against the imperious white structure they protect.
While local opinions about Chiang are reportedly mixed, his statue and extensive accompanying exhibition, suggest a leader who smiled a lot.
That same demeanour is evident among many Taiwanese we meet and amid everyday cultural quirks they indulge; from bin lorries issuing ice cream van-style tunes during their rounds to “wishing you daily joy” signs in coffee shops.
The Memorial Hall shares the vast Liberty Square – host to state visits, lantern festivals and shows – with the rich architecture of the National Theatre, National Concert Hall and Gate of Integrity, all flanked by beautiful gardens and trails.
You’ll find more of the latter in Zhongxiao Park and the former at the huge National Palace Museum, Xiahai Chenghuang Temple and revered Longshan Temple, in Taipei’s oldest area, Wanhua.
Its Ximending neighbourhood also offers a vibrant shopping experience while iconic Dihua Street’s preserved brick-built stores sell fabric, herbs, and Taiwan’s trademark oolong tea.
Close to Taipei’s second flight hub, Songshan International Airport, Miramar Ferris Wheel presents a 360-degree glimpse of that geography from the affluent Dazhi district.
The suburb is served by MRT’s Jiannan Road station with more nature close by in the form of Mount Jiannan trail.
Both are a short walk from Taipei Marriott Hotel (below), a large, art-laden property where arrivals are greeted by a huge lobby mural and handcrafted crystal butterflies.
The hotel is part of a development occupying lush greenery and including some of Taipei’s priciest apartments.
Our contemporary 31st floor Sky King Room offers another panorama of the cityscape, dissected by the snaking Keelung River.
Tempting F&B options include Inge’s Bar & Grill where a 20th floor terrace also avails Taipei views, stylish all-day dining outlet Garden Kitchen, Mark’s Teppanyaki, indulgent omakase in KOUMA Japanese Restaurant, and authentic Chinese choices in The Dining Place.
The TM Midtown hotel arcade touts yet more restaurant options while the adjacent Lobby Lounge is a casual but charismatic space with high ceilings and a conservatory-style spot that overlooks well-tended foliage.
Back in trendy Xinyi, late the following afternoon, we attempt to identify several now familiar landmarks from the observation deck at Taipei 101 as daylight fades.
The sun dips lazily to merge into the horizon and guests are treated to a gold-hued urban canvas accompanied by street sounds that drift 89 storeys upwards, each wave hinting at further adventures in this enigmatic, compelling city.
LITTLE prepares you for someone in a homemade Iron Man costume grabbing your phone for a selfie.
Then few places compare to Rainbow Village, a quirky art project devised by an ex-soldier to spare former military homes from developers in Taiwan’s second city, Taichung.
Bright murals cover the surviving buildings in a once sprawling settlement, now a popular offbeat tourist attraction along with its flamboyant, Marvel-loving custodian.
Taichung reveals more colourful culture when we chance upon a vibrant parade en route to busy Fengchia Night Market, although we prove the novelty as face-painted locals request snapshots.
Serendipity strikes frequently during three weeks in Taiwan, beginning when car rental firms reveal they don’t accept certain international driving licences. We instead utilise the country’s efficient and well-priced rail network and witness lush countryside and rugged coastlines, without the potential navigational disputes.
Our trip begins in Taiwan’s eclectic capital before trains speed us to the island’s coastal cities on a clockwise route. Services are frequent and buying tickets from counter staff, rather than machines, guarantees seats.
In about two hours, an express service has us in Hualien, gateway to Taroko Gorge National Park.
Billed as the world’s largest marble canyon, the stunning collection of rivers and waterfalls made headlines last year because of a deadly 7.4 magnitude earthquake. Many trails remain closed but, after a breakfast of boiled eggs and jujube beans, we’re promised photo opportunities by exuberant guide Udi.
In bow tie and braces, with English acquired reading Hemingway and Wilde, he improvises a tour via prime roadside viewing points, indicating hillsides scarred by landslides.
Our host reveals 100 people died hand-building highway tunnels through the gorge, but authorities now struggle to secure labour to expedite repairs.
We later admire beautiful Qixingtan Beach where blue skies contrast a dramatic grey shoreline honed by the Pacific Ocean.
Passing fighter jets briefly nudge the conversation onto China, but Udi laughs off notions of invasion while America continues to crave Taiwan’s computer chips.
Cheerier remarks about the country’s passion for the outdoors are endorsed by Hualien’s many parks, including medieval-themed Cikasuan, and Taipingyang, lined with beachside cycling tracks and animal sculptures.
At Meilunshun, paths reach a lofty viewing point where pensioners shimmy hula hoops as some of us catch a breath before indulging lemongrass tea and pepper pancake in the indigenous cafe, Pasibutbut.
Google Maps, Google Translate and plentiful data become our best friends in Taiwan, averting cultural and dining mishaps, and troublesome detours.
The former finds Jiang Jun Fu 1936, a peaceful heritage village recalling Taiwan’s Japanese colonial past. And Dongdamen Night Market, a boisterous sprawl of food stalls, rice wine and buskers. Here and elsewhere, we yield to pushchairs occupied by dogs, some fanned by doting owners.
A two-hour train journey to our next destination, Taitung, passes settlements hugged by the mountains and forests that bisect Taiwan.
Taiwanese national pride is palpable when we chance upon Makapahay indigenous culture festival, featuring several tribes in traditional dress chanting and dancing stealthily onto Taitung’s streets. Nearby food and gift stalls do brisk business close to a central forest park where paths lead to city observation points.
Remnants of Typhoon Danas make next day’s stroll along Seashore Park less tenable as marshals direct visitors away from the brutal waves. But the heavy rain prompts us instead towards Tianhou Temple; elaborate, peaceful and increasingly beguiling as myriad lights offset the premature dusk.
Better weather and a half-day taxi tour for £50 takes in Xiaoyeliu, a scenic seaside of curious sandstone rock formations and trails, the natural curiosity that is Water Running Upward scenic area, and Fugang Geopark, home to spectacular volcanic rocks and calf-testing Sanxiantal Eight-Arch Bridge.
An afternoon train from Taitung winds through more impressive mountain scenery to west coast town Fangliao where express buses connect to Kenting – Taiwan’s southernmost town – in lieu of trains.
Kenting’s main street energises after dark when food karts, games and pop-up bars test adjacent restaurants and shops for attention. By day, nearby driftwood-littered beaches become busy with holidaying Taiwanese and international tourists.
Our hired scooter takes us further on though, to Cape Eluanbi where park trails link lookout spots fringed with volcanic rocks, sweeping coastlines, caves, and Eluanbi Lighthouse. Completed in 1883 following several shipwrecks, it also served to deter foreigners from landing among truculent locals.
Our search for a reputed Life of Pi movie location, beyond more stunning cliffside stops, instead reveals surfers negotiating gnarled typhoon debris with skill and a smile.
The hilly route to Kenting National Park is simpler to find. A vast haven of tropical forests and mountains, enticing paths access lush enclaves accompanied by noisy cicadas and foraging monkeys. Roaming deer and yellow land crabs appear ahead of a viewing tower and cafe that survey the entire enclave.
A shared taxi the next morning has us back in Fangliao for a 50-minute train journey to Kaohsiung, a west coast city that blends traditional charm and modern cool.
Guidebook cover favourite Lotus Pond contains the intricate Dragon and Tiger pagodas – ancient symbols of yin and yang – the Taoist Spring and Autumn Pavilions, and the City Temple of Confucius.
Meanwhile, newer architecture and art installations elevate Pier-2 Art Centre, once part of the world’s third-largest harbour, now a gentrified Kaohsiung district hosting trendy shops, eateries and galleries.
Trams link it to Taiwan’s largest shopping mall, a futuristic music arena and ferry terminal, and the testing incline to palatial Shoushan Martyrs’ Shrine beside the ‘Love’ viewing platform.
Further on, Kaohsiung’s showpiece Centre for the Arts contrasts the less formal Weiwu MiMi Village, a cluster of Lingya District apartment blocks used as a canvas by local and overseas street artists.
One hour onwards by high-speed rail, Taichung, doesn’t reveal its personality quite so easily. Beyond Rainbow Village, Wen-Xin Forest Park and Shui Temple shine amid the modernity, as does a restaurant robot serving us ramen.
Uber proves crucial after a hailed driver becomes lost reaching our hotel from the city’s single line metro, but there’s better luck on the coach to Sun and Moon Lake as urban sprawl gives way to paddy fields and mountain panorama en route to the boat, cable car and theme park-blessed tourist favourite.
Epic greenery fills our window again the following day as a final train races us towards Taipei at 295kmh (183mph), closing the loop on an eclectic and indelible tour of Taiwan.
