By Colin Lever
OUR beloved Jersey Royal is the stuff of legends. It was reputedly, discovered by farmer Hugh de la Haye back in the 19th century. He is said to have found a kidney-shaped potato that had 15 eyes. He cut up the spud and planted the parts on a south-facing côtil at Bellozanne. The rest is history. Originally called the Jersey Royal Fluke, it is no fluke that it has become a staple of the Island’s heritage ever since.
When is a Jersey Royal not a Jersey Royal? Simple, when it is not grown in the Island. The Jersey Royal belongs to the genus Solanum tuberosum, more commonly known as the international kidney, because of its shape. The RHS describes it as “having a sublime texture, thin skin, and a rich, buttery flavour”. Sounds just like a Jersey Royal is meant to be! In these modern times we must beware of cheaper imitations.
To protect the unique quality of the Jersey Royal it was given protected designation of origin (PDO) status in 1997, earning its place on the culinary shelf alongside the likes of Parmesan cheese and Champagne. PDO status is awarded based on how a product is grown, cultivated and harvested.
The official PDO for the Jersey Royal, as listed by the UK’s Department for Environment Food and Rural Affairs, states: “First early variety of potato characterised by long oval tubers, yellow skin and firm texture once cooked. Seaweed is extensively used as a fertiliser; this enhances the flavour of the potatoes… Majority of the crop is planted by hand. Each grower selects his own seed. The sheltered nature of the island and rapidly warming soils mean crops can be grown earlier than anywhere else in the UK.”
Clever marketing would have us believe that all Jersey Royals are all still grown on south-facing côtils, fertilised using vraic, planted and dug by hand. The reality is not so idyllic.
Take a stroll along many a country lane, in January or February, and you will see that most are force grown under polythene. A variety of paraformaldehyde agrochemicals, such as herbicides and fungicides, along with expensive fertilisers, are needed, as the soil beneath is exhausted. Does this contravene the PDO ethic? Back in the day, Jersey farmers jealously protected their seed potatoes; some, I understand, now receive cloned seed, imported from Scotland.
The proof of the potato is in the eating. “Proper” Jersey Royals hold their shape when boiled. Those that are not the real McCoy crumble. And then there is the taste. True Royals have a distinct, nutty flavour. Whispers among locals, and beyond, tell a story of a new breed of Jersey Royals lacking flavour. Others speak of the best Royals being those coming from the fields around L’Etacq. There is a goût de terroir, where potatoes grown in one field will taste slightly different than any other, but if there is an emerging lack of depth when it comes to taste, this is a cause for concern. The customer will not know what variety they have bought until they cook said potatoes – and then it is too late. Only by returning to traditional seed and farming methods can the customer be assured of quality.
Across many supermarkets in the UK, potatoes looking remarkably like Jersey Royals are sold all year round. They are not marketed as Jersey Royals, but are usually called salad potatoes. Has our potato industry had its chips? Is its contribution to the Island’s economy boiled, mashed and fried?
Jersey Royals account for over 70% of all the Island’s agricultural exports which, in turn, represent 0.6% of GVA. Ninety-nine per cent of the Jersey Royals produced go to the UK. To facilitate this, 2,000 hectares, over a third of the available arable land, is utilised. But sales of Jersey Royals have fallen from 50,000 tons in the 1990s to around 20,000 tons in 2024.
Why? Maybe UK tastes have changed. Perhaps the cost of living means that Jersey Royals are a luxury that few can afford. Recently, 1,000 vergées of unsold Jersey Royals were dug up. A total of £3 million has been invested, by a UK company, in advertising, in an attempt to “reignite the love” for Jersey Royals. Will the plan be successful, or is our potato industry in terminal decline?
At present, to plant, grow and get ready for the UK market, Jersey Royal production requires significant staffing (over 40% of working costs). Agrochemicals are imported, adding significantly to production costs (around 20%). And then there is the expensive machinery used to harvest, select and make them ready for sale. We can factor in that a significant proportion of potato harvests are cast aside as well. Is it any wonder that Jersey Royals are so expensive? A meme on social media claimed that the cost of a kilo of Royals in the Island is around a pound more than in a UK supermarket – and they could have come from the same field.
With such a small contribution to the Island’s GVA, would potato production not be better served by returning to its roots (pardon the pun) or consider joining the organic/regenerative farming revolution that is gaining traction? It has been calculated that growing a variety of vegetables for local consumption could generate almost twice the amount of profit that exporting potatoes does at the moment. Food for thought?
Colin Lever is a retired teacher and education specialist, SEND consultant, and commentator on educational and community issues. He also contributes musically to repair cafés and charity events and is currently writing and producing a comedy sitcom podcast.
