Lapsed surfer Oliver Kidman grabs a board and paddles out with local legend Max Bennett for a thrilling refresher course in wave-riding
SURF’S up for this week’s Tryout Tuesday, as I headed down to The Surfyard and jumped on a board with local waterman Max Bennett in a bid to catch some waves.
Surfing is a sport heavily engrained in Jersey’s culture, with the first Jersey Surf Club opening on the Island in 1923 with the formation of the Island Surf School of Jersey, which is also known to be Europe’s first surfing club.
However, the sport has come on leaps and bounds since its humble beginnings, with the Island being recognised as the surf capital of Europe during the 1960s.
The sport peaked during this period, with surfing as we know it commencing with the arrival of longboards, and the Jersey Surfboard Club was formed in 1959 with Dr Peter Lea elected as the first club president.
From there, Jersey transformed into a surfing mecca, with thousands flocking to St Ouen’s Bay. This attention didn’t go unrecognised in the international community, as the Island had the privilege of hosting competitions such as the first two European Championships, both of which were won by local legend Gordon Burgis.
Jersey certainly had the talent to go with its huge reputation in the surfing world – five of the six surfers who travelled to the World Championships in Puerto Rico with the 1968 British team were Jerseymen.
Although the 1990s saw Jersey struggle to keep up with the European nations, the Island has never lost the ability to develop top-tier talent, with the likes of Sam George, Nathan Elms and Renny Gould impressing at the highest levels.
The formation of the Channel Island Surfing Federation – the aim of which is to promote, maintain, improve and advance the various disciplines of surfing participated in the islands – has ensured the continued development of talent to bring through another generation brimming with potential.
Just look at Aleks Blampied’s recent national title in the Rip Curl GromSearch Under-16 Boys’ competition, or Max Bennett and Owen Graham making a dent to reach finals in the GB Cup.
With surfing having such a rich history in Jersey, as well as its strong current state promising a great future with electric talent, why not give it a go myself?
Let’s find out more
Surfing is a surface water sport in which an individual uses a board to traverse the forward section – or face – of a moving wave, which usually carries the rider towards the shore.
It is an activity that brings with it a great range of formats and several types of board – there are longboards, shortboards and, in bodysurfing, even a version of the sport where they don’t use boards at all, but we’ll be focusing today on the classic form.
To delve into it and get a good idea of the local surf scene, I sat down with Bennett after our session to discuss everything about the sport.
“The surf scene in Jersey has been a massive thing since the 1950s and 60s, when the Jersey Surfboard Club – which is one of Europe’s oldest surfing clubs – was founded. There’s a lot of history behind surfing on the Island and I think that’s transferred into today’s surf climate,” said Bennett.
“Surfing is very popular right now – beaches are busier than ever and the surf community really shines through that, as there’s a great community spirit.”
That community spirit makes up a huge part of the local surfing scene, as Bennett zoned in on what it’s like: “It’s a very tight-knit group that’s for sure – some may see that as a bit threatening, but I can assure you it’s not, as everyone’s so friendly and always happy to stop and have a conversation.
“We’re all different people, but everyone has that same passion, that one love in surfing that brings everyone together and I think that’s stronger than ever in Jersey, as we all see each other so regularly with it being in the one location.”
Bennett has experience of what it’s like coming into the local surf community first-hand, as he detailed his beginnings in surfing.
“My brother started surfing when I was about three or four, so my options were either to get bored in the car, or get in the water and get involved – so I thought there only really was one option to choose,” Bennett continued.
“It started for me with standing on a body board in the puddle at the bottom of the stairs and has turned into where I am now. I think my beginnings are a good reflection of what I stated previously about the surfing community – everyone was so friendly with my family whenever we went down.”
From such a simple start, it’s certainly been a journey for Bennett, as he’s achieved astronomical heights to perform well on the big stage and reach finals at competitions such as the GB Cup, as well as plenty of success locally.
When asked what the sport has brought to his life over the years, Bennett replied: “You’ve got two sides to it – you have the competitive side, which has brought me so much joy and, sometimes, heartache, but plenty of joy. Even my job at The Surfyard – I’d never have that if I hadn’t started surfing.
“You can never truly have a bad surf, as you’re still always getting that dopamine hit out in the water. Even if you’re having the worst surf of your life, you’re still enjoying yourself and having loads of fun.”
Surfing definitely brings with it a feeling unlike any other when you’re out on the water. Bennett explained: “I don’t really know how to put it into words – I know it sounds cliché, but it is freeing and it’s enjoyable – you’ll always have a smile on your face.
“It doesn’t matter if you’re having the worst or the best day of your life, you’ll still always be smiling, and it’s a sport that can take you all over the world to meet new people – I think the feeling’s unmatched.”
That feeling has helped keep Bennett engaged in the sport for as long as he has, as he continued: “When you’re out there, it’s just you against the elements. In the ocean, no two surfs are the same, there’s just so much variety and there’s always something different to take on.
“Then, there’s just the buzz itself – whatever time you’re in for, it gives you that escape of being in the water and having a good time. Then, you have the competitive aspect, where the adrenaline is flying as you have 20 minutes to perform.
“I feel like you’re always just chasing that next thrill – whether it’s another wave or trying to replicate a day, you always keep on chasing.”
When asked how people can make their start, Bennett explained the usual pathway: “Because it’s so dependent on conditions, it’s probably not as straightforward as joining your local rugby club – but, you can pop into any surf school across the bay, such as The Surfyard, and get started.
“The local community are normally on board with helping out wherever they can, so always feel free to pop into your local surf shop with any questions you may have. Or, get in touch with the Jersey Surfboard Club, which will always give the best advice when it comes to routes into the sport.
“It’s a healthy lifestyle that keeps you active and gets you outdoors and has a great community spirit in which I have made friends for life, so get your hands on a board and give it a go.”
Time to give it a go
At long last, I had the excitement of getting my hands on a board and heading out in the surf for the first time in a good few years. As my dad is absolutely mad for it, that love was certainly passed down and I really enjoyed myself out there – but, because of how busy things have been over the past few years, my surfing has taken a bit of a back seat.
This meant this was the perfect opportunity to jump right back into it, and I was thrilled. Coming straight off the jet ski with the RNLI lifeguards just before made for a great day out – I was absolutely buzzing.
With my prior experience, even though it’s been a while, it’s like riding a bike, right? Surely I could just pick right up where I’d left off?
On the shore, we practised the technique of getting up on the board – “perfect” was what I heard after a couple attempts from Max, so then we set foot into the tides and paddled out.
Now, I may have had it nailed on land, but when the surf is thrown in it suddenly becomes a whole different ball-game – but, I knew what I was doing, surely?
Surprisingly, surfing isn’t a sport that you can leave for years and return to as if you’d never left, as I discovered when my first attempt at a wave saw me lose all control and flop into the water – it wasn’t the dream start I had hoped for.
After a few quick tips from Max, I was back at it for round two, as another incoming wave seemed full of potential – could this be my first of the day?
No, it couldn’t. This time, I was way too far forward on the board, causing me to nose-dive straight into the sea – once again, not the most dignified effort.
With time ticking and JEP photographer Dave Ferguson on the shore awaiting for a perfect shot, the pressure was on – I had to catch at least one.
After a couple more flops – maybe more than a couple – I felt different. This had to be it. I felt the wave brush my toes, paddle one, two and three and then thrust myself up on the board, this time with a more controlled technique and, by some miracle, I was balanced on the board and finally riding a wave.
I stepped off after losing balance. It may not have been the longest ride, but it was progress – I felt amazing, there really is no feeling like it. I thought I had it nailed – but, before I knew it, I flopped right off the board on the very next wave.
There was room for another highlight before my session was over, as I closed out with my best wave of the day – it was a proper ride and definitely trumped my prior catch. Standing up with a smile on my face, I realised Dave had headed off and had missed my best one.
This was one of my favourite Tryout Tuesdays so far – there was just no feeling like it and, whether I caught the wave or got thrown off, I couldn’t stop smiling.
A huge thank-you to Max Bennett and The Surfyard for all their hospitality, who always stayed patient despite my absolute butchering of a few sets. This really has reignited the fire and I can’t wait to get in again.
Contact the Jersey Surfboard Club at jerseysurfboardclub.com
