DAVID DUNN recently visited Kuala Lumpur, where he enjoyed a stay at the Hilton, marvelled at the city’s ‘Indo-Saracenic/Neo-Mughal’ mix of pavilions and copper domes, journeyed to the Batu Caves – and braved a glass floor 300 metres in the air
VENTURING into a glass box 300 metres above the ground tends to give a very different perspective of a city.
Within hours of arriving in Kuala Lumpur, a moderate fear of heights went out the window – literally – as yours truly braved the transparent floor of a daring space protruding from KL Tower’s observation deck.
In stark contrast, Kampong Bharu remains among the capital’s oldest Malay settlements, a living window of traditional wooden homes within a forest of skyscrapers.
Different again, Bukit Bintang’s vibrant urban playground was once a tin-mining settlement. The area draws millions each year and bursts into life come dusk when street performers hustle at junction corners and roadside chefs begin firing up stoves.
Heading in from the impressive Liuli Crystal Fountain, a dynamic fusion of Malay, Chinese and Indian cultures swiftly becomes evident.
No more so than on Jalan Alor, a hectic, open-air avenue where crowds jostle for space as they weigh up myriad dining options.
Hawker karts tout snacks such as satay chicken skewers, grilled squid, and the much-maligned stinky durian fruit, across the tarmac from enthusiastic waiters luring customers with seating and menus spanning the region.
Back at the Hilton the following night, we indulge the more sedate Chambers for a meal that excels alongside wine from an impressively diverse cellar.
The award-winning restaurant also boasts a wide selection of imported meats, with cuts treated in a customised Himalayan salt tile dry-ageing cabinet and grilled over lava stone or charcoal.
The culinary highlight of our stay, we enjoy sophisticated smoked salmon carpaccio and juicy Uruguayan Black Angus ribeye, made memorable by side dishes of corn ribs and brown-butter mash potato. A decadent Madagascar chocolate tart with tiramisu coffee ice cream completes the experience.
Any thoughts of calorie overload vanish swiftly the next morning during a steps-hungry visit to KL Forest Eco Park.
A peaceful rainforest within the Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve, from which KL Tower rises, this sanctuary of dirt paths and elevated canopy walkways provides solace from busy city streets and the evolving skyline.
If the clouds turn on the taps, however – as can happen regularly in this tropical climate – shopaholics can find dry distractions at Bukit Bintang’s Pavilion.
The pavilion harbours countless brands including high-end, appointment-only boutiques, Mid Valley Megamall, Suria KLCC mall at Petronas Twin Towers, or seven-storey Nu Sentral mall, beside the Hilton.
Whether it is your entry point for a broader Malaysia holiday or the location for an extended city stop, Kuala Lumpur is a bustling, vibrant blend of colour and contrast, and a worthy standard bearer for a country that presents a crossroads of cultures, through food, faces, religions and architecture.
A revolving restaurant at the Southeast Asian landmark offers a more sedate view of the sprawling Malaysian capital, including Petronas Twin Towers, the world’s tallest conjoined skyscrapers.
At 88 storeys, that iconic address with its distinctive skybridge and sleek steel, Islamic-inspired geometric design, remains a must-see, whether you ascend it or admire it from adjacent KLCC Park – where you’ll also find the Lake Symphony fountain show and distinctive Asy-Syakirin Mosque.
Kuala Lumpur is much more than tall buildings, of course.
For example, the city’s relatively modern face often shares close proximity with sacred cultural landmarks, and a past shaped in no small part by the 1786-1957 British presence.
Resulting influences are evident in key colonial architecture, including the city’s original main railway station and the National Textile Museum, both designed by British architect Arthur Benison Hubback, who also helped shape the stunning Sultan Abdul Samad Building.
Originally offices for the British colonial administration, the latter watches over Merdeka Square, where Malaysia’s independence was declared. The former cricket pitch remains a treasured green space favoured by families and teens choreographing TikTok videos.
The building houses numerous displays, but its Indo-Saracenic/Neo-Mughal mix of elegant “chhatris” pavilions and copper domes is what beguiles – and underlines Kuala Lumpur’s multicultural fabric.
This is further illustrated at nearby Jamek Mosque, another Hubback contribution. Built at the confluence of the Klang and Gombak rivers – now part of the 110km River of Life revitalisation project – it retains a significant role in the Islamic community.
In opposite directions, St Mary’s Cathedral and Masjid India further demonstrate the multi-faith, tolerant culture that underpins Malaysia.
Built in 1888, Central Market also holds historical value as one of the oldest commercial addresses. The former wet market is now a haven for regional culture and art and crafts, souvenirs, and local food and fashions.
Street sellers at Chinatown’s Petaling Street night market also have an eye on relieving you of Malaysian Ringgit courtesy of clothing, footwear and other items, some less authentic than their branding suggests.
Despite its size, Kuala Lumpur is a very manageable city, on foot and via a metro and monorail network. E-hailing app Grab also makes cabs easy to use and affordable.
Amid plentiful hotel options, Hilton Kuala Lumpur presents an enticing mix of modern comfort, amenities and location.
Linked directly to KL Sentral Station – the main rail hub, under 30 minutes from the international airport – it is an ideal base for exploring the city, and further afield.
And the Hilton’s eclectic restaurant range enables guests to ease into their stay and adjust to the time zone and geography.
Some food and beverage outlets offer great city views, including The Lounge, Italian eatery Graze, and Boardwalk, beside an epic 120m freeform pool.
Japanese outlet Iketeru, Chambers Bar & Grill, and Chynna’s modern Cantonese and Shanghainese menu offer more choice, while Aviary Bar is the stylish, intimate home of the signature Jungle Bird cocktail.
The hotel’s Executive Lounge occupies the 33rd floor, yielding more panoramic views and ideal vantage points from which to indulge the casual shift from day to night.
From here we spy the stunningly-illuminated Thean Hou Temple, an elaborate, six-tiered hillside landmark dedicated to Chinese goddess Mazu.
Equally eye-catching, but better known, the intriguing Batu Caves can be reached via direct KTM Komuter train from KL Sentral.
Set deep into lush terrain close to the station in Gombak, Selangor district, lofty limestone spaces at Ramayana Cave brim with sequential dioramas, moody lighting, and vivid statues recounting an epic Hindi narrative.
However, while this and other attractions vie for entry fees, at 42m, the Lord Murugan golden statue is the primary draw for most who come to climb 272 colourful steps with inquisitive monkeys to be awed by a truly spectacular Batu cave housing ornate Hindu shrines.
