Jersey travel writer DAVID DUNN visited Europe’s classic Christmas markets – and found his inner Grinch temporarily vanquished by the stalls, the vendors and, of course, the miles upon miles of warm bratwurst
EMBRACING the joyous spirit of Christmas can prove a tall order for some of us.
Often branded a real-life example of The Grinch, this unashamedly includes yours truly. But then Europe’s Christmas markets beckoned…
While there are numerous options across the continent, Vienna tenders several bustling festive fairs set against epic architecture, and it is just over two hours flight from London.
In the heart of the Austrian capital, iconic Rathausplatz hosts the buzzing festive stalls and ice skating of Wiener Christkindlmarkt in front of the City Hall until Boxing Day.
Then there are the stunning palaces of Belvedere and Schönbrunn where seasonal joy and glühwein – aka mulled wine – continue to flow, until 31 December and 6 January respectively.
While those alone were enough to make even this grump yield, Art Advent – nestled ahead of baroque Karlskirche church – has a less commercial feel with a focus on largely handcrafted unique, quality gifts.
This arts and crafts theme appears more prevalent in Cologne, less than 90 minutes flying time from the UK, about five hours by Eurostar from London, or eight hours by ICE train from Vienna.
The German city is renowned for its Christmas market scene and – on first-hand inspection – what it lacks in dramatic settings it more than compensates with the distinctive personalities of its markets, vendor cheeriness and variety of stalls.
Cologne shares the vibrancy – as well as huge evening crowds – of Vienna’s festive offering, but the city centre layout makes its key markets a mostly walkable affair. It also has a handy transit system; the Stadtbahn light rail/tram system runs underground centrally and connects above ground to festive options further out.
Cologne does manage to give Vienna a run for its architecture, with Weihnachtsmarkt, which has the beguiling Kölner Dom – one of the world’s largest cathedrals – as its backdrop.
The market follows a familiar format of festively-lit chalets selling myriad products from intricate baubles and soft toys to bobble hats and countless jewellery lines.
Copious amounts of food – think waffles through to miles of bratwurst – are served by numerous food vendors, washed down by a tsunami of glühwein, punch concoctions and beers served in souvenir mugs and glasses.
Leave yourself time to behold the magnificence of the cathedral, free to enter unless undertaking a tour, with one such tour offering the opportunity to climb the cathedral towers if you aspire extra steps to walk off some of those calorific goodies.
A short stroll leads to Heinzels Wintermärchen where a large alpine chalet serves drinks on an industrial scale as ice skaters glide by.
Spread over the Alter Markt and Heumarkt squares, the Heinzels fairytale focuses on the legend of Cologne’s friendly household spirits, Heinzelmännchen, and inspires themed alleys filled with luxury chocolate, fudge, cakes, potential gifts and presentations such as glass-blowing and pottery by craftsmen from all over Europe.
If you are serious about Christmas shopping, the best tip is to tour the markets by day for easier access to vendors, including those artisans demonstrating their skills or willing to adjust products to customer requirements.
The full festive ambience only really arrives with nightfall, but so do the crowds which in turn can reduce a wander around popular choices – such as the enchanting House Elves’ Winter Fairytale in Old Town, and the family-focused Nicholas’ Village at Rudolfplatz – to little more than a shuffle.
That said, the sound of revellers toasting life, the smells of mulled wine, sugary pretzels and nougat, and the bustle of seasonal enterprise make for an enticing and special combination.
The quaint Market of Angels is a great place to begin – or end – your day as the cosiness of the chalets takes on greater warmth from illuminated surrounding trees while giant mannequins roam (pictured below).
It is also a brief walk from one of Cologne’s other most intriguing structures, the Wasserturm Hotel Cologne, Curio Collection by Hilton.
The circular building is a converted former water tower originally designed by London engineer John Moore in 1864. And where some hotels wow with their opulence, the star of this property is the building itself.
The Wasserturm fascinates with its curious layout the moment you find reception from a modern glass entrance. Huge brick pillars provide a sense of scale, punctuated by steel walkways and spiral staircases, while strategic lighting picks out discreet seating spots.
Doorways lead to a lounge comprising several smaller lounges that flank one side of the tower, while newer additions include a modern meeting room and the Wintergarten restaurant where breakfast includes juices such as “Power Start” and “Rabbit Speed”, and decadent, moorish creations “Benedict Huevos Rancheros” and “Smashed Croissant”.
More steel and glass blend with brickwork on upper levels, including a one incorporating a deceptively generous gym, and spa with massage room and sauna.
As someone fascinated by water towers, the opportunity to stay in one was hard to resist.
This Wasserturm has had a long life and is on its second iteration as a hospitality venue, with previous guests having included members of the Rolling Stones.
Not surprisingly, rooms leading off its circular landings are a little different here.
Our fourth floor King John Moore Duplex Suite featured a novel layout that included a kitchen and dining area dominated by a tall, arched window. A second showpiece window gave natural light to a main lounge of modern furniture and shelves occupied by photo books detailing Cologne and Germany’s many water towers.
One wall presented a timeline detailing this one’s original development through to entering the Curio Collection in 2022.
A spiral staircase led up to a mezzanine floor bedroom and a long black-and-white art deco bathroom with a shower cubicle and bath tub. Black metal ornaments including a rhino, tortoise shell and octopus accompanied other eye-catching objects throughout.
At the top of the tower, Bar Botanik is a stylish evening venue for innovative cocktails and food ranging from snacks to larger meals. The venue’s generous outside area offers 360-degree views of the city – an ideal spot from which to plot your daytime activities.
Stadtbahn’s Poststrabe station is close by with a street lift taking you to the underground platform for connections to the suburbs or the main station and central market locations.
*Most of Cologne’s festive markets remain open until 23 December, although the smaller Harbour Market – beside the Chocolate Museum and the “love locks” of Hohenzollern Bridge (pictured on the Weekend cover) – continues until 28 December. Heinzels operates until 4 January. For more on The Wasserturm, visit hilton.com
