Richard Heath and his family enjoy the simple pleasures of the charming medieval town of Dinan
FOR most tourist towns it’s all about attractions – the family fun centres, the museums, the art galleries. It’s those individual things which a tourist board can promote and pull together to sell to potential visitors.
Dinan is different. Dinan is not a tourist honeypot because of a handful of wow-factor attractions.
Dinan is a success because it is Dinan. It doesn’t even seem to try.
It has a natural advantage, of course. Built high on a hill overlooking the Breton countryside and extending down into a quaint riverside area, Dinan is arguably the loveliest town in France.
Its ancient half-timbered buildings, some dating back to the 13th century, and beautifully preserved ramparts only add to the charm.
But there are no big-hitters. Instead, the holidaymaker finds themselves immersed in a busy tourist-but-thoroughly-French town of about 11,000 inhabitants, where the locals embrace the visitors while getting on with their own lives.
It is a town of narrow cobbled streets lined with crêperies, restaurants and patisseries, which inevitably lead to a small square lined with crêperies, restaurants and patisseries.
Everywhere you turn there are places to eat and drink. It’s like the locals are saying, ‘Relax, you’re on holiday. Have a coffee. Pretend you’re French.’
And all this is just a 30-minute drive from St Malo. Our crossing on the Condor Rapide (condorferries.co.uk) was smooth and on time, arriving in the Breton port during the late evening.
Home for the week was Les Volets Bleus (letriskel.co.uk) – an ancient, beautifully renovated stone cottage on Rue de l’Abbaye less than a minute’s walk from Dinan’s riverside.
Its large, open-plan downstairs area is easily big enough for a family, and with a well-equipped kitchen guests can try their hand at some French cooking with ease.
Down a few steps leading off the lounge is a small bedroom and shower room and toilet, and upstairs are two decent-sized bedrooms and a house bathroom.
The property, which is run by British agents, also has a safe, enclosed garden and patio, making it ideal for those with children or pets.
The nearby riverside area itself is a gem – another world from the busy town centre of Dinan up the steep cobbled road of Rue du Jerzual.
The river is lined with bars and cafés as well as a boulangerie on the corner near an old bridge.
During the tourist season, visitors can hire kayaks and paddle along the trundling River Rance. The Maison de Rance – a museum and activity centre offering nature walks, exhibitions as well as boat hire – is a must for those with families.
There are also three other excellent walks, all with colour-coded markers en route, which are displayed on a board near the old bridge.
All take roughly an hour, with the trek to the nearby riverside town of Léhon arguably the most picturesque.
But walking around Dinan itself can be just as rewarding.
Château de Dinan, which forms part of the ramparts, is worth a visit. In the ‘donjon’, built in 1384, you can visit the town museum and in the basement there are medieval tombs.
The ramparts themselves are still in good condition, but, unlike those of St Malo, there is only a small section which can be walked.
However, you can still follow them, taking in the views of the surrounding countryside as you do.
The Maison du Gouverneur – one of the oldest houses in Dinan – and the Jardin Anglais are also worth a visit.
When it comes to dining, like many French towns, Dinan likes to spoil the visitor.
Many of the cafés and restaurants come with excellent reviews, but two particular favourites are the very family-friendly Italian Cecco, and the wonderful crêperie, Au Coin de la Breizh – serving excellent crêpes and galettes in an informal and relaxed atmosphere.
Both are enjoyed by locals and tourists alike, and offer the perfect place to relax and refuel before setting out to enjoy more of the simple charms of this traditional French town.
